Smart home all of Slovakia
Heating you cannot see and that takes no wall space with a radiator. Mats, foil and cable under tile, laminate and wood, with a thermostat and a programme for the time of day. Outside, self-regulating cable keeps steps and a drive clear of ice.
Average 5.0 out of 5Scope
01
A mat is laid in the adhesive under tile and raises the floor less than cable. Foil goes under a floating floor and adds almost no height. Cable in screed gives more output and more inertia, so it suits a floor that is heated continuously. The floor build-up decides.
02
In a new build, mats can go under any kind of covering — tile, laminate or wood. With wood and laminate what matters is the surface temperature the manufacturer allows, and the thermostat limits it.
03
Self-regulating cable in a step, a drive or a gutter keeps the surface clear and changes its output with the cold. It is switched through a sensor, so it does not run when there is no frost.
04
Equipment and cable from FENIX, DEVI, RAYCHEM and PRODESIGNE. The thermostat is programmed by time of day, so the floor is heated when somebody is home rather than all day for nobody.
05
The circuit is measured before the floor goes on and the figures are written down. Afterwards the cable can be neither checked nor repaired without breaking the floor up, so that is the only moment a fault can be found cheaply.
06
A programmable thermostat holds the temperature by time of day. With electric heating the rate for the whole supply also changes — and that does more to the running cost than any setting will.
07
An outdoor surface is not switched by the clock but by a temperature and moisture sensor. The cable then runs only when ice is actually forming, not all winter — otherwise it is the most expensive heating the house has.
Handed over
Common questions
Yes, if the house is built for it and the floor has enough area. In an older, uninsulated house it is usually wiser to use it as additional heating in chosen rooms.
The tariff matters more than the output: electric heating changes the rate for the whole supply. Without that change running it is considerably dearer, so we settle it at the start.
Yes, always. We photograph the layout and measure the circuit before it is covered — afterwards it can be neither checked nor repaired without breaking the floor up.
It can, but the existing build-up has to come out. So it is done during a bathroom or floor refurbishment rather than as a separate intervention in a finished flat.
A mat under tile adds a few millimetres, cable in screed more, because it needs cover. In a refurbishment that is a figure to know before the doors are ordered.
Yes, and that is the commonest case. The bathroom is where a warm floor is felt most and where the area is small, so running it is cheap.
Resistance and insulation are measured, which says whether it is broken and roughly where. That is why the figures are recorded at installation — without a starting number there is nothing to compare with.
Tile conducts heat best. Laminate, vinyl and wood work too if their maker approves them for underfloor heating: the thermostat then keeps the surface below the temperature the maker allows. Under a floating floor in a renovation, heating foil suits best, because it adds almost no height.
On their own
Advice or a call-out
Tell us what is happening, or what needs doing. We agree the scope, the price and the next free date on the phone. If you cannot get through, we are on a job and will call you back.
